Forum Title: basement windows...the frame and the base??
so im about to replace the hopper/awuning style windows in my basement. I ripped out one of the old wooden frames and it would appear that im in for more than i bargined for. THe bottom was rotten so im glad i got that out but the window measures your standard 15x32. This is all fine and good but it would appear that there is a cap of concrete on the blocks to which the frame was set in. It is about an inch thick or more easy. Do i want to smash this out and lay my new windows right on the cinder block beneath? This cap is at a slight angle and from the inside of the house slants down at a 45 degree angle. Im not sure why this was done 50+ years ago but maybe that is how they set basement windows back then. If remove this troweled concrete wont i have access directy down into the holes of the cinder block? Id assme this cap is there for a reason. Mabe ill leave it and square it up as much as possible. No idea here.
Category: Windows & Doors Post By: JESUS LAWSON (Jackson, TN), 01/28/2019

I didn't catch what type/size of windows you plan to install into the masonry opening. If you look at the cement blocks, if there is an 8 block below the sloped cap, then yes, the cement likely goes down into the holes of the blocks... and this is sometimes a pain in the neck to remove. If you beat on it too much you run the risk of breaking the block, which would make you more work. But if there is a 4 block below the sloped cap, then you likely have a solid under your sloped cap, in which case, the sloped cap will likely break off cleanly without too much effort. You'd want to chip off as much old mortar as possible and then clean it off with a grinder and cup wheel or diamond blade. - If you want to remove the sloped cap, that is. The sloped cap was there for windows that are centered on the 8 block- they obviously need to have a sloped sill in front of them so that water drains off the front. If your new window will be installed toward the outside of the 8 block, and maybe has its own sill, or you'll install a sill onto the front when you trim the window, then perhaps the sloped mortar cap is not needed. You might be able to gain some room, or seal the new window up better if it was removed. hard to say without the specific size/type of window that is going in. Let's say you have a vinyl window that will just fit into the opening. If it fits on top of the sloped mortar cap, and the gap around the window is close enough that you can just run a bead of sealant all the way around the window, then you'd likely want to leave the cap in place, provided it's in good shape, not cracked in pieces, etc. Hope this helps, or at least gets you pointed in the right direction.

- AUDREY SANTOS (Denver, CO), 03/04/2019

Quote: Originally Posted by XSleeper I didn't catch what type/size of windows you plan to install into the masonry opening. If you look at the cement blocks, if there is an 8 block below the sloped cap, then yes, the cement likely goes down into the holes of the blocks... and this is sometimes a pain in the neck to remove. If you beat on it too much you run the risk of breaking the block, which would make you more work. But if there is a 4 block below the sloped cap, then you likely have a solid under your sloped cap, in which case, the sloped cap will likely break off cleanly without too much effort. You'd want to chip off as much old mortar as possible and then clean it off with a grinder and cup wheel or diamond blade. - If you want to remove the sloped cap, that is. The sloped cap was there for windows that are centered on the 8 block- they obviously need to have a sloped sill in front of them so that water drains off the front. If your new window will be installed toward the outside of the 8 block, and maybe has its own sill, or you'll install a sill onto the front when you trim the window, then perhaps the sloped mortar cap is not needed. You might be able to gain some room, or seal the new window up better if it was removed. hard to say without the specific size/type of window that is going in. Let's say you have a vinyl window that will just fit into the opening. If it fits on top of the sloped mortar cap, and the gap around the window is close enough that you can just run a bead of sealant all the way around the window, then you'd likely want to leave the cap in place, provided it's in good shape, not cracked in pieces, etc. Hope this helps, or at least gets you pointed in the right direction. Sure does. The windows are standard 32x15 hopper style and i want to replace them with vinyl sliders from pella. I was thinking i could just slap it a replacement with tapcons and sealant from what ive been reading. Not sure the best way to go about it. IT is a full 8 block under the window but the cap sounds hollow. It isnt all beat up and wrecked. It is actually in quite nice shape. That is why i was wondering if i could just clean up the cap near the edge where the old wood window frame was pushed in to the motar to help square it off so i can slide my new window in place cleanly. How do you torque these vinyl windows down? DO you run tapcons in the sides of them and the top screws into the joist. Then leave the bottom loose and seal up with the window and door foam? Also...what size tapcons do you run usually? 3/16 or 1/4? How long? Seems easy enough but i want to make sure ive covered all my bases before i start so i have a plan.

- TERRY KLEIN (Racine, WI), 02/19/2019

Remodeling Resources & Links For Homeowners

requestaquote Get Free Quotes callnow 888-506-9527